The t-shirt is the most-worn custom garment on the planet: at the gym, at work, at school, on the street and on the couch. Screen printing is the classic way to put a design on one. Here is how it works, step by step, whether you are trying it yourself or just want to know what happens on our presses.
New to the concept? Start with what screen printing is and how it is done. This guide is the hands-on version.
What do you need to screen print a t-shirt?
- Screen frame with mesh stretched tight
- Photo emulsion and a scoop coater to apply it
- Film positive: your design printed solid black on transparency film
- Exposure unit or another strong UV light source
- Dark room or light-safe area for drying coated screens
- Water source for washing out the stencil
- Ink suited to your fabric
- Squeegee sized to your design
- Press or platen to hold the shirt flat
- Heat source for curing: a conveyor dryer, flash dryer or heat press
- Blank t-shirts
The ten steps
1. Create your design
Build your art in design software at the size you want to print it. Separate each color onto its own layer, because each color needs its own screen. Our design tips cover file prep.
2. Print the film positive
Print each color layer onto transparency film in solid, opaque black. Any gray or weak areas let light through and weaken the stencil.
3. Coat the screen
In low light, use the scoop coater to spread a thin, even layer of emulsion on both sides of the mesh.
4. Dry the screen
Let it dry flat in a dark, light-safe area. Light at this stage will start hardening the emulsion.
5. Expose the screen
Place the film positive on the screen and expose it to UV light for the time your emulsion calls for. Light hardens the emulsion everywhere except under the black areas of your design.
6. Wash out the stencil
Rinse the screen with water. The unexposed emulsion washes away, leaving open mesh in the shape of your design. Let it dry.
7. Set up the press
Load the shirt onto the platen, smooth it flat and lock the screen above it. Line up the placement now, because it is hard to fix once ink is down.
8. Pull the print
Spread ink along the top of the screen. With firm, even pressure, pull the squeegee across to push ink through the open mesh. For multi-color designs, repeat with each screen, lining up every color to the last. Clean screens between colors and between jobs.
9. Cure the ink
Run the shirt through a dryer or under heat until the ink fully cures. This is what makes the print survive the wash. Skip it or rush it and the print can crack, peel or fade.
10. Quality check
Look for clean edges, full coverage, correct placement and no smudges. Let the shirt cool and rest before washing or wearing it.
What makes a home print look professional?
- Start with one color. Registration gets harder with every color you add.
- Use tight mesh and a sharp film. Fuzzy films make fuzzy prints.
- Test on scrap fabric before printing on good blanks.
- Watch dark shirts. Bright colors on dark fabric usually need a white underbase printed first.
- Respect safety. Ventilate, protect your hands and follow the instructions for every ink and chemical.
Why do print shops do it differently?
On a production press, the steps are the same but the scale is not. Multi-head presses hold several screens in perfect registration, conveyor dryers cure every shirt at a consistent temperature, and experienced printers dial in ink and pressure for each fabric. That consistency matters when you need dozens or hundreds of identical shirts.
At TBSP, screen printing starts at 6 pieces and is printed in-house at our Los Angeles shop. Full-color photo art is usually better on DTG or DTF, which skip screens entirely. Not sure which is right? Read about DTG printing.
Want shirts without the darkroom? Get a free quote.